Northern adventure: navigating uncertainty with gratitude

Hello, and a heartfelt thank you to all those who have supported and cheered us on. The journey has not been easy, but it has been worthwhile. While it's crucial to prepare for the unknown and make the most of what we have, it's impossible to anticipate every twist and turn, as you will see. Yet, in the face of uncertainty, one thing we can always prepare is a great attitude.

See below how our trip unfolded. Long post alert!

January 08, 2024

Our journey kicked off with a morning flight from Montreal to Kuujjuaq, with plans to connect to Kangirsuk. However, in the Kuujjuaq airport we started hearing about a rising number of delayed and eventually canceled flights to various communities. The airport staff, accustomed to such situations, extended a thoughtful touch by offering hot beverages and snacks to the weary passengers.

As the afternoon progressed, the unavoidable news reached us – our scheduled flight to Kangirsuk had been canceled. Alyse quickly reached out to the Kangirsuk hotel, updating them on our delayed arrival. We were asked to return the following afternoon for a rescheduled 2 pm flight. With an unforeseen overnight stay in Kuujjuaq, we sought assistance from the local hospital to secure last-minute accommodation.

On a side note, most mobile phone carriers do not cover here. But if you can make the call, reaching the hotel involves passing through a somewhat confusing touchtone system. Then someone may or may not answer on the other side.

It was a similar experience calling the hospital to drive us to where we would stay.

Me: Hi, I'm at the airport, can I have transportation please?

Other line: Sure, we will send someone.

Me: When will you come?

Other line: We will come.

Me: Do you need my name? Callback number? Wait, hello???

We did eventually reach our lodging, however there was a shortage of rooms and beds. Eventually the resourceful nurse found the key to an extra room and walked through a -22°C cold to deliver to us that evening! Although the turn of events was a bit disappointing, the unplanned night's rest in Kuujjuaq was a welcome refreshment for the next leg of the journey.

January 09, 2024 

Arriving at the airport as it opened at 9 am, we aimed to check in early and secure our spots on the flight. Afterwards, we spontaneously decided to take a 1.5 km walk from the airport to explore Tivi Galleries. Wearing only a jacket that reached my hips over thin pants, the skin on my thighs and legs were numb.

There, I purchased a pair of beautiful handmade sealskin mittens that were comfortable and well-suited for the Arctic temperatures. Then Alyse and I returned to the transit while Dr Johanne stayed a little longer in the hospital. As we were deliberating which food to leave behind to pick up on our next overnight layover in Kuujjuaq, Johanne burst in with unexpected news. She was taking an emergency flight back to Montreal in less than three hours. Alyse and I were to continue onto Kangirsuk. After a quick lunch we hurried back to the airport.

Uncertainty hung heavily in the air. Up to this point, we had relied on Johanne's experience to navigate all the logistics.  Now we found ourselves on our own in what felt like a foreign country. After Johanne’s flight departed, Alyse and I waited as flights were canceled one by one. Ours, initially scheduled for 2 pm, got delayed to 4 pm, then 6 pm, then eventually disappearing from the screen altogether. The front desk couldn't provide updates as they awaited information themselves.

Finally, a call came for Alyse, me, and seven other passengers to approach the front. After a suspenseful moment, they announced that an additional flight would be arranged for us at 7 pm, while the others would have to return the next day. By this time, it was around 4:30 pm. We secured transportation back to our accommodation, had a quick early dinner, and returned to the airport by 6 pm.

By 7 pm, there was still no plane in sight. To pass the time, an Inuk lady began singing softly in the almost-empty airport. Her soothing and peaceful voice captured the attention of those still present. I approached her and, through a translator, asked if I could record her singing. Eagerly, she sang a few songs to the great applause of those around. Her name was Leah Kudluk, and she warmly invited Alyse and me to visit her at her house in Kangirsuk.

Finally, we boarded a King Air plane. Some of our fellow passengers included a group of teachers who were on standby in Kuujjuaq for three days. Upon landing and checking into the hotel, one passenger realized he left all his belongings behind in Kuujjuaq. Distressed and hungry, having not eaten, I offered him a large box of stew and another of quinoa.

Settling into bed, a wave of sheer gratitude washed over us for having finally reached Kangirsuk.

January 10, 2024

First day in the clinic. Although I only recognized Frédérique, the head nurse, and Dr. James Morse, the GP stationed there, everyone else was welcoming and happy to help. We set up our workspace in the cramped dentistry room where we conducted allergy testing for patients with food and environmental allergies. Later that night, we connected with my team over Zoom to discuss the way forward for the remainder of the trip.

January 11, 2024

We packed all our belongings, checked out of the hotel, and made our way to the CLSC. The initial plan was to see patients in the morning, grab a quick lunch back at the hotel, and then head to the airport. However, on the way to work, we ran into James, who cautioned us about the unlikelihood of flying due to an impending blizzard.

Upon calling the airport, we received confirmation that our flight to Aupaluk had been canceled. With no patients showing up, we spent the rest of the morning sorting out the logistical challenges. By mid-afternoon, thanks to the assistance of James and administrative support from down south, things began to settle. Due to the weather conditions, it became apparent that flying on Friday was unlikely. The revised plan was to stay in Kangirsuk until Saturday morning. Subsequently, I would travel to my next destination, while Alyse would head to Kuujjuaq and then connect back to Montreal. Her journey would continue by car to Boston and finally to New Orleans.

The next task was securing accommodation since we had checked out of the hotel. Fred informed us that the employee transit was available due to flight cancellations caused by the blizzard. Jonathan, the generous and friendly caretaker, graciously offered us a lift to retrieve all our belongings from the hotel and then to the transit. However, it took three trips between the clinic and the transit to finally unlock the door. First, the building number didn't correspond to the keys, and then the keys didn't fit.

One last issue remained. With the decision to skip Aupaluk and my altered travel plans—no longer connecting to Kuujjuaq—I had no opportunity to restock the remainder of my food left behind in Kuujjuaq. Additionally, having given away the stew, we feared we might fall a little short for dinners. Remarkably, nobody seemed fazed by the challenges of the day. Everyone in the clinic showed a remarkable adaptability to unexpected developments. Although there were no immediate answers, there was an overarching attitude that everything would be figured out, with everyone lending a hand to support each other through the process.

January 12, 2024

Because we hadn't anticipated staying longer, we found ourselves starting the day without any scheduled patients. James gave us some referrals while we also delved into the archives, looking for anyone with a drug allergy label. Minnie, the admin staff, contacted each of them through Messenger. Very quickly, she was able to create a schedule.

The entire day kept us occupied with multiple drug challenges. The highlight was successfully being able to delabel a patient marked with a "severe penicillin allergy." Given her previous anaphylactic reaction to another medication, her anxiety was understandable, fearing a potential medevac if anything went awry. We proceeded cautiously on her, including mixing our own ampicillin dilutions for skin prick and intradermal tests, and then conducting a two-step challenge. Imagine her immense relief and sense of victory as we confirmed that she was not allergic to penicillin!

A delightful surprise emerged from our recent encounter at the Kuujjuaq airport, where Leah Kudluk had invited us to her house. Despite our previous attempts falling through, thanks to Jonathan and James, we secured a lift first to the Coop store to get some food (more on that later) before its 6 pm closure and then onwards to Leah's house.

Despite our limited communication, with Leah speaking only a few words of English and James having some elementary Inuktitut, Leah and her husband Jaaka expressed immense joy upon seeing us. Jaaka shared his family photos, including a faded black and white photograph of his parents from the 1930s. We admired the art adorning the walls, and then Leah began singing one song after another from an old hymnbook with an intricately hand beaded sealskin cover. Regrettably, we had to return to the clinic to pack up and complete charting, but our hearts were uplifted by the soothing songs of peace she shared.

January 13, 2024

Today marked the final day in Kangirsuk. The two of us, who were complete strangers just five days ago, were now friends and close teammates parting ways. Alyse successfully made it to Kuujjuaq and then onward to Montreal, while I stayed up north and reached where I needed to be.

Concluding thoughts…

This trip has been far from straightforward, but deep down I felt reassured that in every situation we would not be left hanging. When plans fell through, we always secured a comfortable place to stay. Despite not packing enough food for our unexpected stay, somehow food always found its way to us. Jonathan shared his protein shakes during moments stuck on the phones coordinating flight changes. In our accommodations, we stumbled upon leftover pasta and spices, which we used to cook a curry-inspired dish. People we just met generously offered practical help and expected nothing in return. We were offered hospitality by complete strangers. In all, we lacked absolutely nothing, even in situations where it seemed like the ground opened from under us.

Gratitude fills me for how our journey unfolded, with each interruption leading to something even better than our initial expectations. It seems there was an experience to be had or someone to meet, perhaps explaining why those disruptions occurred. I also value the genuine community spirit that enables survival in such challenging conditions. Is the sense of community something that we have lost in our busy and self-absorbed lives down south?

That is it for now. Stay tuned for part 2!