Deepening Relationships in Rwanda (Part I)

This August marked my third return to Rwanda. My first visit was in February–March 2023, when I spent a month there, including three weeks on elective with Dr J.C. Kagimbana at the Rwanda Military Hospital. That same trip also included a one-week Allergy and Immunology boot camp for residents at the University of Rwanda, led together with Dr. Ghislaine Isabwe.

We returned in December 2024 for a shorter visit to teach the second year of the Allergy and Immunology Boot Camp. This time, from August 6–21, 2025, I came both to help run the third annual boot camp, and to reconnect with friends and colleagues who have helped make Rwanda a home away from home. Each day carried reminders of community, resilience, and generosity – all of which make Rwanda so special to me.

Thursday – Saturday August 7-9: Arrival in Kigali

I landed in Kigali on the evening of August 7 and was greeted once again by the familiar airport. I was picked up by Genevieve K, who had been my cell group leader at CLA Rwanda back in 2023. She and her husband, Gilbert B, had graciously opened their home to host me for the two-week stay.

Even though it was late at night, they had prepared a full welcome meal. The table was covered with familiar favourites: boiled pumpkin, peas and carrots simmered with tomato, mashed potato, rice with carrots, mixed vegetables simmered in tomato and of course, a flask of hot tea. In Rwanda, black tea is boiled with a generous amount of milk and some fresh ginger. Over the course of my stay, it became a recurring comfort at meals and gatherings throughout the trip.

The following day was simply for rest and adjustment. For breakfast I was greeted with more African tea served with soft milk bread, baby bananas (Kamaramasenge), and Blue Band spread. At lunch came matoke (green bananas) with beans and rice.

Saturday was another slow day of settling in, but also a chance to enjoy the rhythm of family life. Meals came straight from the outdoor charcoal-fired kitchen – lunch was more pumpkin, peas, crunchy fried beans, and avocado, followed by matoke stew in the evening.

Sunday August 10: Church and a birthday

Sunday began bright and early with 8:00 a.m. service at Christian Life Assembly (CLA), one of Kigali’s largest churches. It was through one cell group at CLA that I first met some of the friends who have since become like anchors in my Rwandan journey.

Later that evening, I had the privilege of attending the 70th birthday celebration of Dr Emmanuel Gasuhuke. Listening to the tributes from guests, it was clear how deeply he had impacted lives as a physician and as a man of resilience and generosity. His story is remarkable. Born in Tanzania during a time of displacement, he trained and worked there as a clinical officer before returning home to Rwanda during the years of liberation in the early 1990s. Dr Gashsuhuke was asked to remain behind and run a clinic for soldiers passing through Tanzania on their way to Uganda for training. “They told me, you don’t have to go to the battleground. Stay here, have a clinic,” he recalled.

Beyond medicine, his contributions were deeply human. In the years after the genocide, when many women were left widowed or in vulnerable situations, he dedicated himself to helping them find new paths. He arranged opportunities for them to learn practical skills, such as sewing, that offered dignity and income. Much of this was done without outside funding; often he gave what he could from his own pocket, occasionally supplemented by donations from volunteer organizations.

When asked about his legacy, he said simply: “If I find someone in a very sad condition and help them move to a little bit better, then my heart is full of joy.” To him, healing has never been only about the body, but also about the soul, the mind, and the spirit.

Monday August 11: Boot camp begins

On Monday morning we headed to Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Kigali (CHUK) to begin Day 1 of the Allergy & Immunology Boot Camp with Dr. Ghislaine Isabwe. The program was facilitated by Dr Florence Masaisa, Ephrem Nsabimana, the program coordinator for Internal Medicine, with support from Dr. Pirette Mfurankunda, the Chief Medical Resident. I remain deeply grateful to the University of Rwanda faculty who welcomed us so generously and helped make this program possible.

The day was filled with didactic sessions: an introduction to Allergy/Immunology, allergic rhinitis and allergen immunotherapy, urticaria/angioedema, and food allergy. The lecture slides were graciously prepared in advance by Dr. Mehr Shah (now an allergist-immunologist in Washington, DC) and Dr. Adhora Mir (PGY-5 in Allergy & Immunology at McGill), whose contributions made the teaching run smoothly.

The commute home was another reminder of Kigali’s rhythm: narrow roads crowded with cars, and streams of moto-taxis weaving in between. What should have been a short drive often stretched much longer. Yet even the fatigue of the day was offset by my conversation with Gilbert, whose thoughtful company and provocative insights about life made the ride unexpectedly engaging.

Tuesday, August 12: Skin testing

The day began with more lectures; however, the highlight was the skin prick testing practical session. We had brought several allergy testing reagents for demonstration, and it was fascinating to see what our class might actually be allergic to. At one point, someone even brought along meat to test, wondering whether their reactions were due to a true food allergy or more consistent with chronic spontaneous urticaria.

In the evening, I briefly visited my friend Shalum Azaza, whom I first met back in 2023. Later, I returned to find an unexpected treat — Masaka strawberry yogurt in a massive 5L container. It was thick yet drinkable, and I quickly understood why it was so addictive.

Wednesday, August 13 – Cake and Cell Group

We headed out early again, trying to beat the Kigali traffic. With the jet lag of a six-hour time difference finally wearing off, I began to look forward to the commute itself. The ride gave me unhurried time to talk with Gilbert, who often shared his everyday life wisdom.

We planned a surprise cake delivery for after lectures. The tradition began last year for the chief resident’s birthday, and we kept it alive this year. The bakery sent a two-tiered vanilla cake by moto bike, and how it stayed intact, I’ll never know. Since it wasn’t anyone’s birthday, Dr. Isabwe and I debated what message to put on it. I suggested “Allergy / Immunology Rocks” with immunoglobulins piped in icing. The bakery obliged—sort of—by placing a printed stock image of an Ig onto the cake. It was hilarious and not at all what I had expected.

In the evening, we attended cell group at Dr. Gasuhuke’s home. Just as the meeting began, the power went out, and we sat together in candlelight while sharing stories of resilience and overcoming insurmountable odds. The night closed with prayer, then a warm spread of ginger milk tea, chapatis, samosas, and banana bread. What struck me most was how naturally it felt like an extended family, carrying each other’s burdens with genuine care.

Thursday, August 14: Clinics and a surprise

Thursday was dedicated to clinical teaching at the outpatient department. We split into two groups: Dr. Isabwe led one, while I led the other. Patients were seen in both English and Kinyarwanda, which was typical for everyone else but challenging for me. The morning focused on asthma, with handheld spirometry and aeroallergen skin testing. In the afternoon, we moved to the ENT, concentrating on allergic rhinitis. By the end of the day, we wrapped up with the final exam, reviewing the key points from the weeklong course.

 

On the way home, Gilbert stopped by a bakery to pick up a surprise: fresh pull-apart bread. Its soft, texture and milky taste reminded me of pai bao, the Hong Kong–style butter bread I grew up with. It was the perfect ending to a long week. With the academic commitments completed, the rest of my days in Rwanda unfolded with friendship and rediscovery.

(Continued in Part 2)